Project RockClod

: that looks sweeet ...

Nice now is time to it in action hurry the hell up and get some Vid. I like the decall , looks

im trying to get a vid for you two es
rome wasnt built in a day!! :P

i just cant wait to get my hands on this E-DIG now!!
Installed a 4CH Rx and have a 3CH Tx ready to go. The 2CH Rx/Tx from AE would have been just fine but with this new E-DIG i needed another channel to switch it over.


SooPer-Honcho-Clod coming to a theatre near you!

well is all I got to do is ya about the vid

ill fuckin you into tommorow !!

LMFAO

, like all ur I aint

Well..... another delay has come about!

i found my RRP 9T pinions and Thundertech Adj. motor mounts however i took an hour just to find x4 countersunk 3mm screws for the motors to mount the thing.

had to further modify my endcaps on both diff casings, which allows me to adjust the gearmesh. Ill just CA glue a patch of lexan as a dustcap.




the delay comes from my lower links whereas they cross the terminals on the mag mayhems. By installing the TT Adj. motormounts & that the Kyosho motors are longer bring them right to the links. So... with that being said, i now need to make a few stops tommorow to get this adjusted properly by re-doing the top links, bringing the motor higher and above the links.


Need:
RTS electronics
24v switch

Universal fasteners
3mm threadrod (has to be ordered in)

Interior crafts & RC
12" length male/female 3-wire connector (savage winch module)
3/16 alloy tubing

now im packin it up & heading to as i have to be up at 7am to take the boys to school/home

just use a rubber plug in the hole ya made, will be ez to remove and put back in if ya gotta change gearzzzzzz....

update:

my LHS not only had 3mm threadrod, i also picked up 3/16 stainless teel tubing. Ill be redoing my upper links. Waaaaaay stronger then my current setup using 3/16 alloy tubing!!

Switch is now wired & works like a motherfucker, just need to mount it up and make a link from the servo to the switch.

well i can tell ya from experience the stainless will bend and deform also, ya outta just buy a set of links from us, them zzzz will never bend

its for the upper links, i really dont those will bend
the lower links are axial and are stout aswel.

i i have to tear my diffs apart, something it making noise pretty badly? im guessing the 3-spyder gears arent meshed properly.

, ya outta check that b4 final assembly, dont ya just hate that

fuckin shit|!!!

i used tamiyas tool to set the pinion....RRP 9T was set high enuff to obliterate both my fucking spurs. ugh

already fixed that and now about to work on my upper links tonight. maybe even a mount for the 24v switch?

well sounds like u got it under control...

man i tell ya....this shit gets frustrating at times!!!
i removed the custom servo mount off the transmission case.
i couldnt get any more angle from it being in the way.

I now have the servo mounted back on the axle-stay, and
will be making a support to go from the servo plate back to the axle tube tommorow.

the threadrod i got today was 2.5mm, fuckin iidiots at my LHS dont know their ass from a hole in the ground. Now i have to go all the way back down there and hopefully swap it to 3mm threadrod. argh!!

i found something to use as the spacer to go through the trans-case and into my custom 3-link post mount, but still NO luck finding anything 10mm thick for material??

can i just fuckin get this rig moving? Fuuuuuuuuuu.............

Maybe ya need help from some real Fabricators , i have found over the years it takes more time than some people wanna spend to get a sweet rig ....


just sayin slow down and

dude...im not rushing this project in the least!

i built a Clod-based crawler years ago and it worked
but in this case, i tried to eliminate the front 3-link postmount by making something different. It worked with the 540sh motors just fine, hoever....with the mayhems i need to bring them up a touch to be above the lower links or else the make contact with em'

as for the spurgears, that was an error using the Tamiya pinion-tool on these RRP 9T. The teeth on the RRP's only use up about 1/2 or so of the depth. The other half is not "teeth", and thats what took the spurs out.

ive thought every single part out on this crawler so far, and in my opinion its working better then my 1st clod from years ago. Just a few glitches along the way....it happens!

so stfu and stop your "know it all attitude" bullshit :

Hey just tryin to give ya a lil advice but I can U are a knowitall fuckstick so make ur posts i dont really give a if ur pile o parts ever works , jesus what a fuckin lil ya turned out to be....

far as I U know what can do with ur opinion also SUK some ya

and you wonder why out of the 28 registered members that there are only 2-3 active? moron!!

Nope, im friends with em all, is just who I of as an idiot. so I tend to pick on ur , but I ya cant take it so i will let ya post ur in peace...

Chihuahua

Anyhow....



steering link from 3mm threadrod & 3/16 steel tubing done,

fabb'd up an axial scx10 shock as my bumpsteer off the left knuckle which will be mounted
mid-axle using 35w oil.



Fabb'd up my steel skidplate for the front axle, just needs hardware and some drilling.

Sound keep up the good work

nice job on that clodbuster swampdawg... looks like it should be sweet on some rocks

Some of the shit im still tinkering with....



fucking servo potentiometer i t hink is goofed somehow, need to still crack the servo open to see whats going on? basically when powered up it just keeps winding/spinning?




then theres the bumpsteer im working on that will act as my servo-saver.
still havent made the brace that will be mounted on the axle (mid-mount).
ill be goin up to 35w. Had 25w but dont t hink its enuff