Swamps HCR32 Skyline

RB25DET engine swap




Car show this year HNIC 2011

NICE CAR Swampy!!!

so give us some more details? like how fast and top speed and some like that man.



I know ya have tested it out....

Thanks for posting ur Sweet Ride....

1989 Skyline HCR32
RB25DET engine (from the R33)
Dump valve by Greddy
Trust/Greddy FMIC
MBC set @ 12PSI for now
Bayside blue paint
GTR body kit
Seibon carbon hood
Recaro seats
White face guages incl A-pillar
Short shift kit by Megan-racing
Razo 340g shift knob
Momo steering wheel
Bilstein suspension
+++more

never had the car on a dyno but raced a mustang which claimed to have 425hp which i ran by him a car length.
Top speed around 240+
1/4mi @ approx 13sec (this was on a detune) as i still need to tune the EMU, havent got the DKU5 cable plugged in yet to do so.
Handles like a dream and looks hawt-!

bad ass car swamp bet she is a blast in the twistys. bring her down i know some killer roads

Steering rebuild










awaiting for the parts to arrive from MNR Vancouver (Tein traction bars & Driftworks HICAS bar) before i can start this project. The steering rack new is $4k CDN so i found a solid used one for 175.00. Buddie had a set of spare used hubs which came with awesome tierods and ballends which ill be using when i do this.


more to come when i begin.....

Spnt the entire day from 7:30am - 6pm working on this bloody car and it aint even close to done! fuck! :P

i managed to install the LEFT steering hub/rotor/brake caliper/traction bars/shock strut, etc...

Now my issue is this fuckin inner front tie-rod which seems to have some sort of lock-key on it to prevent it from turning on the shaft from the rack. Managed to break the main steering lines to the rack and drain the fluid and broke the outer tie-rods off both sides. Just need to break the steering shaft spline and slide it off, and remove the steering rack bushings, then the whole thing will slide out from the chassis.

And i havent even begun the rear steering Lock out bar from Driftworks!
That will be a complete fucking disaster i am sure!! this means removing ALL lines to & from the rear steering right to the front of the car also removing all solenoids for the HICAS. Then cracking the back off the steering pump, removing the fins that cause HIGH pressure to occur.









Tie-rods are fooked completely! hahah


more to come... wankers that design cars!

Dont forget to mark the splines for the "steering wheel position"
Besides that, sweet mods looking good.

got the powersteering rack out before i retired for bed tonight....

I knew ya had it in ya, now git that car finished.

old rack disassembled


New rack assembled (inner tie rods repacked with grease, new tierods & boots)


Rear steering rack (HICAS) removed & Driftworks HICAS elimination bar installed)
Inner tie rods repacked with grease & out tie rods were still in great shape


After several hours of stripping this car of ALL HICAS related steering lines, solenoids,etc...
NO MORE FUCKING HICAS!! SaWEEEEEET!! :D

Sweet Jay. nu parts look

now ya can get out and actually drift eh???

fuck ya!!
now with the rear steering removed it wont counter-act what i do.

Update:

well this has come to a Hault now..... Stripped the PS bracket so until
i can locate a new one, im out a fuckin car now! PISSFUCKCOCKSUCKERMAGGOTSHIT!! there goes my Terrets again!

Fairwell piece of shit HICAS shit!!
Cleaned up things today aswel such as new 3/8 transmission hose, new standard clamps (fuck them jap shitterz), and removed ANY brackets and such that was meant for HICAS. Only thing left now is the motherboard for the HICAS but this has to remain in the car otherwise there wont be any steering at all.

man sure alot of crap to remove, bet the car is lighter too now .....

Well... ive called Monkeynuts racing and they dont have a PS bracket, also called Rocky Moutain Imports & Hi-Rev with no reply back yet, so im still out a PS bracket for now.



Modded the Power steering pump by removing the steel fins from the backside which stops the high pressure from occuring. Just need a bolt big enough to cap off the high pressure line out from this pump.

After searching all my local parts stores i finally came across the 16mm (1.5 pitch thread) bolt needed to cap off the high pressure side of the PS pump. Cut it the bolt off enough needed to thread into the pump and used x2 copper seal washers to finish this part of this project.
All i need now is a new PS pump bracket which i sttripped which looks like that will cost 40.00 +S&H

sooooo close now!! :P

Good thread swamp, looks like slowly but surely' ur gittin her dun

Lookin Good Swamp, why not just helicoil that stripped thread, hell U could have it done tomorrow if ya do that .....

pulled a used PS pump bracket out of Armstong BC for 40.00 (Hi-Rev Performance) and just finished installing it. Topped it up with fluid after making sure all connections were tight. Started her up and the steering seems smooth in transition but it chatters both left and right??

any ideas, or is this normal?
Fluid is at the correct level in the resevoir.
And so far, no leaks!

self-edit:
after turning the wheels for 20+ minutes, i managed to bleed this biotch!!
now to make an appointment for an alignment hopefully tommorow mornin'

Are you using Power steering fluid or trans fluid? Its better to use pwr steering fluid. Will also get rid of that windy sound it makes wen steerin wheels is turned.

using transmission 3/8" neoprene hose,
using PS fluid.

its all good now minus the alignment still needed.

nice work swamp be able to drive the car again soon huh

had the alignment done friday morn'
been driving it since, but the PS pump has a minor leak. Waiting for my PS pump rebuild kit to arrive in 3 weeks for 35.00 CAD

fuckin car drives amazing now! love it

sick